Attilio Codognato

His jewelry, founded in 1866, is one of the monuments of Venice.After learning the trade with his father and grandfather, the master goldsmith strengthened the influence of the family home and seduces a prestigious clientele.He is also an enlightened art collector.

You have studied in Milan, a city where you were born.Then at the age of 19, in the 1950s, you decided to go and settle in Venice.

Yes, and I have been a jeweler since.

What is jeweler's work?

Jewelry is an art of theft, insofar as the essential is to be inspired by what surrounds us in order to transform it.

All jewelers have a specialty.What did the family jewelry codognato look like when you arrived at the age of 19?

Ancient objects, tradition have always served as an influence, and it is still true today.We are guided by the idea of a job well done, with love, and by remaining receptive to the city of Venice, which is our main source of inspiration.A piece that walked well at the beginning, it was Moretto, a Moorish figurine that my grandfather had copied on an old table.

You can no longer make it, because it is not politically correct?

In effect.Instead, I started making heads of death, and they obtained worldwide success.

Where did you draw this idea from?

Of Caravaggio: The 16th century marked the end of an era, and he and the proponents of his school began to include in their paintings as a symbols of resurrection, in opposition to death.

So people want to have a skull jewel?It's a bit weird...

They should be asked the question.It's weird, maybe, but incredibly popular.There is still a very strong demand.It is a classic motif, now, whether for a ring, a spindle or another room.

From your beginnings, you have imposed yourself like the jeweler in Venice: your shop is an obligatory step, a legend.

I would like to tell you an anecdote.Many years ago, I did not understand why so many customers came with a specific request: a spindle with five emeralds.In fact, Ernest Hemingway told me in beyond the river and under the trees, and everyone wanted a memory.

You have also created a famous snake bracelet.Do you still make it?

Yes.It is made in Venice, with a precious stone head.

The choice of stones is crucial.How did you learn?

At the start, especially in London, Hatton Garden (a district renowned for its jewelry and diamond trading, editor's note), and also with other jewelers.

Has the precious stone market changed?

The most beautiful stones are more expensive than ever, while the course of mediocre stones has dropped.I try to avoid using poor quality stones.

It is said that ruby is one of the most precious stones.Is it true ?

Yes et non.A very beautiful sapphire can supplant an average ruby.Three stones compete for the most precious stone title: the emerald, the ruby and the sapphire.

What is the precious stone par excellence?

Ruby.

Not the diamond?

If, in its multiple incarnations, and because it presents itself in several forms, between the old and modern sizes.

What is the most precious diamond in the world?

He does not exist.We can always find a more beautiful.

How do you work on a daily basis?How do you design your pieces, drawing or explaining?

I have people with me who have a mastery of outstanding drawing.I prefer to explain myself.Each person has a specific task: crimping, enameling, all these procedures are confidential.These are my secrets.

You are one of the few jewelers to have remained independent, while others, like Cartier or Bvlgari, are now luxury giants.

Yes, c'est comme ça que je me défends.They speak another language.It's different, but just as interesting.They also have aristocratic customers, from the very first shots.The world behind this business is funny.

Are your jewelry, they are unique pieces?

Yes, ils portent ma signature et je ne réalise que des pièces uniques.It is with my lone craft cap that I work best.

Venice must have changed a lot over the years?

She changed for everyone.It has become difficult if only to imagine that it is in this city that sumptuous parties were organized on the Grand Canal in the 1950s.

Are you followed by families of generation in generation customers, children of former customers?

Very little.

Are there still young people who love jewelry?

No, there are fewer.But today's world is interesting, because those who come are more selective, more curious.

You have also always been very interested in art.

One day, after the war in Milan, I played football in front of a store.I broke the window with the ball, and inside, there was a magnificent chirico giorgio.The collector was Vittorio Emanuele Barbaroux.He trained me inside, pulling me by ear, and forced me to look all his collection.It may be where my love of art was born.

What were the first works you bought?

Canvases of Roy Lichtenstein and Andy Warhol.I became a friend with Warhol.He made a great portrait of me.

Warhol also loved jewelry?

Yes, il les collectionnait.He collected everything, but in particular jewelry.He only came to Venice a few times.One day, I organized a party in his honor, with a hundred guests at my place.We were all seated when, all of a sudden, there was an earthquake.Warhol fell on the back.But he was happy with this stay in Venice, so that we have often seen each other in New York.I got heard extremely well with him.He did not speak much, but he communicated abundantly when he was in mood.

You have collected a lot of works by Warhol.

Yes, au fil des années.As well as Robert Rauschenberg, Bruce Nauman and Cy Twombly.And I am an unconditional of Marcel Duchamp.

How did you find out?

When I lived in Milan, there was a gallery possessed by the late Arturo Schwarz, an irreplaceable man.He made me discover Duchamp and influenced me a lot.

You are at the head of an important collection of Duchamp, right?

Important, I don't know.All his most important works are at the Philadelphia Museum.I bought some of the parts that still circulated in the 60s and 70s.I don't think there are still works of him on sale.In addition to Duchamp, Schwartz made me buy Francis Picabia, Salvador Dali, surrealists.

Dali loved jewelry?

Yes, et il en dessinait aussi.I published a book called Antologia Grafica del Surrealismo, in 1975, and we had omitted.It was an essential actor of this movement, and he should not have been dismissed from an anthology of surrealism, so he asked me to come and meet him at the Meurice hotel, in Paris, and to bring him 30000 dollars, by means of what he would give me something to do my job.After a month, I went there with the sum, and I asked him what he had for me.A watch, he said, and as I was a jeweler, goldsmith, his "contribution" would be like a jewel for me.I made her a beautiful jewel that was then lost.A superb surreal jewelry with horses.A flamboyant, strange object.

After Duchamp, you collected surrealists and pop art.And then ?

Maurizio Cattelan.I also really like Giulio Paolini.The interest is not to know the artists, whose personality sometimes contrasts completely with their work.It's more interesting to own the work.

In your life, there is the world of art, with your collection, and your work as jeweler.Do these two aspects remain separated?

There is a link, I find it more stimulating to watch the two together.

What do you think of contemporary jewelry?

I don't like her too much.It's paradoxical, perhaps.Contemporary jewelry is made of new materials and desires, no longer just gold.There are many more customers, and you have to race to satisfy them.

Nowadays, maybe people wear less jewelry.They have them, but do not put them.Do you think it is more investment than in the past?

Old jewelry is investments.When they are authentic, they are carrying an incredible story.And I like it.

Have you ever sold pieces to museums?

Yes, mais je ne peux pas dire lesquelles.

Do you like to work with them?

Yes, énormément.It would be my dream: to work only with museums.

Otherwise the jewelry will disappear?

Yes, comme tout le reste.

Like Venice?

Venice trade in her own death.

Translation of the English Héloïse Esquié

Translation of the English Héloïse Esquié