Miracle, clothing finally recreates jobs in France
Miracle, clothing finally recreates jobs in France.The sector is about to hire between 3.000 to 4.000 employees per year.To tell the truth, no one would have bet on such a reversal for this sector which had been dismantled in the 1980s, annihilated by massive relocations.
160.000 jobs at the end of the Thirty Glorious Years, the sector has reduced as a sorrow, to count more than between 10.000 and 15.000 positions in production.But since 2015, the needs of SMEs working for fashion and luxury have been more pressing.Everywhere, from the Pays de la Loire to Brittany via Normandy, the workshops are growing and modernizing, until they are faced with the lack of staff.
Recruitment campaign
"Our companies must today recruit to deal with the retirement of some of their employees, but also to support the growth of the luxury sector," sums up Marc Pradal, the co -president of the French Union of Mode Industriesand clothing.
The increase in the luxury market feeds 50 % of hires."There is between 10 % at 15 % of net jobs," said Laurent Vandenbor, general delegate for fashion Grand Ouest.The made in France is another lever, still modest, activated by young brands such as French underwear, Toffery workshop or jeans 1083.
Luxury pressure
Pour susciter les vocations, le Comité Stratégique de Filière Mode & Luxe, qui regroupe aussi arts de la table, bijouterie-joaillerie, et maroquinerie […], a lancé une campagne mettant en valeur ces métiers.Because recruitment difficulties worry luxury groups, concerned about the ability of their subcontractors to follow the movement.It remains between 250 to 300 ways in the service of large houses, LVMH, Chanel or Hermès in France.
"There were no new businesses.SMEs that have survived the 2009 crisis have expanded and have the obligation to find solutions, ”says Laurent Vandenbor.Workshops today under tension, with high load plans.This is the case with Thierry (Calvados) and FONLUPP (Mayenne), blur specialists (dresses, skirts), who now have 215 employees - against 90 in 2008.
"There is an acceleration of the rhythm of the collections.An average series is 250 to 300 pieces per model.If the request is three to four times higher, this may block, because the delivery times must be held, underlines Amedi Nacer, their leader.Our customers want these products faster and faster in their shops ”.
Upstream dialogue
The workshops would like more dialogue upstream with the big houses."We would need partnerships over three to five years with these groups, which would give us visibility, and would allow us to recruit, train and invest," said Amedi Nacer.In the meantime, the needs are such that the majority of workshops refuse new customers for lack of sufficient tool."The atmosphere is optimistic, but the situation is trying for all actors," says Laurent Vandenbor.
These SMEs did not wait to modernize."The image of Zola style workshops is over," quipped Marc Pradal.Today, there are screens, tablets and group work ».At Mod Passion, a Norman mesh specialist, it is possible to draw a product, from receiving the fabric to its shipping."This allows us to identify a lack of materials," rejoices its manager Stéphane Marseille.But in the making, the added value is always the hand ”.
Connected model
The Thierry Etablissements have, themselves, equipped with a model connected to 70.Euros.A first with an industrialist!Once the measures have been returned, the model adopts the requested morphology, which allows you to refine the bosses.Because more and more stylists draw clothes for small breasts.A complicated exercise with a traditional sewing model ... "We are precursors, enthuses Amedi Nacer.Tomorrow, this will allow us tomorrow to make tailor-made ”.
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In clothing, robotization is not often the solution, the machines struggling to replace the hand.The urgency for its subcontractors is above all to recruit and train internally."There are diplomas of model makers and stylists, but nothing side production," regrets Stéphane Marseille.Migrants, retraining, all candidates are tested.It takes at least eighteen months for a seamstress to be operational.Cost of training: 31.Euros, selon les fédérations.A budget for a small business, especially when it comes to hiring ten people.
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