"Making our products in France is essential", assures the CEO of Longchamp

Clément Lesaffrewith Emmanuel Duteil, modified inAs Longchamp celebrates its 70th anniversary, Jean Cassegrain returns for Europe 1 to the success of this family business that has become a flagship of French luxury.INTERVIEW

Happy Birthday Longchamp! The famous leather goods brand celebrates its 70th anniversary with great fanfare on Tuesday evening at the Paris Opera. Founded in 1948 by Jean Cassegrain, and developed by his son Philippe, the brand continues to occupy a special place in the world of French luxury, under the direction of grandson… Jean. A family business that continues to appeal to fashionistas around the world. "We had a period of very significant expansion since in the space of ten years, we had to triple our sales. We are now arriving at a stage of slower progression", indicates the boss of Longchamp , guest of Emmanuel Duteil's eco interview, Tuesday on Europe 1.

Le Pliage, an iconic model. Now present in the biggest cities of the world, Longchamp must find a way to continue to attract new customers. “Our distribution network is almost complete, we have opened points of sale in many countries. It is a growth phase which is more complicated since we have to increase our sales on a like-for-like basis. we work a lot on our efficiency", judge Jean Cassegrain.

In this quest for more customers, Longchamp can rely on its flagship product, the Pliage. Holder of the record for the best-selling bag in the world, the model invented by Jean Cassegrain's father in 1993 has not changed its formula: colored nylon and a button to fold the bag back on itself. "It's still the house's bestseller. It's a bag that has become iconic, universal, that appeals to everyone and fulfills a whole host of uses for different people," notes the brand's boss. .

Made in France. In its pocket, Longchamp also has an asset in the era of time: the made in France. "We manufacture about half of our products in France", says Jean Cassegrain, while a new factory has just opened its doors in Vendée, with a hundred jobs at stake. "For us, it is essential to be industrialists ourselves. If we know how to manufacture our own products, we also know how to have them manufactured by others", he insists.

First steps on the New York catwalks. If Longchamp is known for its bags, the brand also offers clothing. A diversification that reached a milestone on Saturday with a first show at New York fashion week. "It's a lot of work. It's a big operation to set up with insane logistics. We're happy to have delivered a great performance, the reviews are good. For a first, it's rather successful", rejoices Jean Cassegrain.

For this entry into the world of ready-to-wear, Longchamp has not skimped on resources by enlisting the services of model Kaia Gerber, daughter of Cindy Crawford, whom all brands are snapping up. “There are signs that are expected from brands. We had to get fully into the game,” says Jean Cassegrain. Longchamp was also able to count on the precious support of Kate Moss, ex-muse of the bags. “She was our ambassador for eight years, but we had moved on for a while. We thought it would be fun to invite her for this first show, alongside Kendall Jenner (the half- sister of Kim Kardashian, editor's note) who is our new muse. She was very nice", says the boss of the brand.

Focus on the in-store experience. This diversification into fashion was not so much a survival imperative as a logical transformation for Longchamp. "The worlds of leather goods and fashion have come together, it is now the same economic sector. The brands that are considered leaders in fashion actually come, for many, from leather goods. The reverse is also true," recalls Jean Cassegrain. Moreover, "fashion brings a very important element of desirability". "Our customers all already have a bag. They don't necessarily buy a bag because they need it, they buy because we manage to make them want it", underlines the boss of Longchamp.

To show its clothing collections to the public, Longchamp had to adapt the size of its stores. This attention paid to physical sales is always the subject of particular focus. "We work a lot on the store experience. When we go to the store, it's to do something other than choose a product and pay. The idea is also to have a good time," explains Jean Cassegrain. This is also what has enabled the septuagenarian brand to resist competition from the Internet. "Overall, the luxury industry has been pretty cautious about all of this," he says. "But it's also because there is always this coefficient of pleasure associated with the act of buying in stores."

A family business… which will remain so

Like all brands that are doing well, Longchamp attracts covetousness. "We are asked from time to time, we have not counted the offers", assures Jean Cassegrain. But there is no question of selling for the moment: "I think it is well known and known that we are happy to be independent, that we like this tranquility which allows us to do what we want in all freedom".