The Saga du Carré Hermès, the emblem of French luxury

By wetretrjyu
05/02/2023
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By Clémentine Pomeau-Peyre

It is tied in the hair, in bare back, belt, bracelet, around his neck or negligently hung on a canvas bag.Since the late 1930s, the Hermès square has been able to renew itself without changing to become an timeless classic.In two days of sale, on November 9 and 10, Maison Cornette de Saint Cyr offers to browse the whole history of this emblematic accessory of French luxury.

"In the majority of successions, there is at least one square Hermès," said Hubert Felbacq, who underlines the incredible link between the French and this fabric.And given the number of squares offered for sale every day, he is certainly right!On the other hand, only a small proportion of these scarves exceeds the usual estimate of 80 to 150 euros.In sales of the collections of Didier Ludot and Félix Farrington, on November 9 and 10 in Paris and live on Interelères, a certain number actually exceeds this range and reach estimates around 200 to 300 euros.The value difference is essentially to the history of these accessories.The Hermès Carré was born in 1937 on an idea of Roger Dumas and the stylist Lola Prusac.The first reason to see the light of "Omnibus and white ladies' game" is a nod to the inauguration of the Madeleine-Bastille transport line.The frame is fixed: 90 x 90cm, in silk twill, with rolled edges.

La saga du carré Hermès, l’emblème du luxe à la française

An timeless classic

Worn in a sling to support a broken arm by Grace Kelly, in chief covers by Brigitte Bardot, with immense black glasses by Jackie Onassis ... The square will benefit from incessant advertisement in the 1950s and 1960s, to the point of becoming theClassic gift to offer to a young girl.Hubert Felbacq has fun: "All the designers then made silk scarves, often offered in perfumery, and it was an ideal gift for a man, much easier to choose than a perfume!On the patterns side, the themes dear to the Hermès house, and directly inspired by his past of saddler, will give birth to multiple squares.The most classic of the classics remaining the gala flanges, which exists in dozens of different colors.

A myriad of artists will also have the opportunity to express themselves on this framework.Among the most sought after, Xavier de Poret, in the 1960s: “With themes around hunting and especially animals, he interests Beijing enthusiasts, Persian cats, Teckels, who want a square in the image oftheir favorite animal, ”explains the expert.More broadly, he specifies that if the Hermès scarves are bought by collectors or fashion lovers, they are also sought after for their themes: "To the glory of the Foreign Legion" for those who are interested in militaria, "travel inRussia ”for history enthusiasts, etc..

A collection of more than 700 Hermès squares dispersed at auction

Significant advantage, there are few false in this area."The quality of silk, manufacturing and colors that it would be far too expensive to try the adventure.The squares are therefore relatively spared, "according to the expert.Between the 1950s and the 2000s, the Hermès house also responded to orders by manufacturing special editions: a Sacére Rackbot France, only on sale on the ship, another for the BNP, or several scarves made at theOpportunity for the Olympic Games that took place in France.Parts published in few copies, and whose prices are easily rising today.

The collection of more than 700 Hermès squares presented during these two days of sale "is a summary of all production between the years 1938 and the 2000s, with more than twenty squares dating from the first years, between 1938 and 1945»Rejoices Hubert Felbacq.Some more recent pieces nevertheless show the turning point operated by the big house for ten years: more flashy colors, more modern patterns, in order to keep the square of the square in all wardrobes.Note that there is a series of tutorials on the brand's site, showing how to tie its square and transform it into a small top or even into chic bag cover.Men are not forgotten and can also learn to appropriate this essential accessory!