Second hand - used luxury: from Internet to department stores
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Second hand - used luxury: from Internet to department stores
C’est un marché qui n’en finit plus de croître: en 2020, le luxe de seconde main pesait quelque 28 milliards d’euros à l’échelle mondiale, selon un rapport de Bain & Company.
The multiplication of platforms and the creation of dedicated spaces in stores has accelerated the trend.
In the 1980s and 90s, the fashion and luxury items already worn especially interested collectors.But times have changed, especially since the internet wind blew: in the late 2000s, began to emerge online resale sites of used luxury items.
Aujourd’hui, l’industrie du luxe neuf pèse entre 250 et 295 milliards par an, selon Bain & Company, l’un des cabinets de référence en la matière.
But for the specialist Serge Carreira, lecturer at Sciences Po and manager "Initiative Emerging Marques" at the Haute Couture Federation, "it is the dynamic, very lively" of luxury of second -hand "which is interesting": thismarket is progressing faster than first -hand luxury.
And even four times faster, according to a report by the Boston Consulting Group, which emphasizes that digital platforms generate 25% of global second -time sales.
La seconde main se lance sur le web
At the end of the 2000s, new players joined the second hand market and launched a new offer on the web.The idea is then to offer collectibles of large houses but also ready-to-wear claw, such as Isabel Marant, Maxmara or Zadig and Voltaire.
In France, a collective cloakroom is a pioneer in the field and has known, since its creation in 2009, a great success.The company is valued at 1.45 billion euros and 25.000 new items are posted every week.
On the stock market side, the American The Real Real, born in 2011 and based in San Francisco, is another big actor in the second hand.
In the Mitan of the 2010s, specialized platforms multiplied.Collector Square opened in 2012, before byluxe (now monogram) in 2015, then the Crushon site was launched in 2018.These websites also open shops: Monogram has a deposit in the 17th arrondissement of Paris and Collector Square has a boulevard Raspail showroom.
Les grands magasins s’engouffrent dans la brèche
The dynamism of the sector attracts department stores.Collector Square thus launched the Bon Marché Rive Gauche in October 2020.
The Galeries Lafayette, boulevard Haussmann, opened a space of 500 square meters dedicated to the second hand and the "responsible fashion" on September 14, 2021, welcoming brands like Monogram, Personal Seller or Crushon.
Eight days later, it is the turn of spring, a few steps, to open an entire floor for the second hand, the "7th heaven", more devolved to luxury, with in particular a part grouping parts signed by largecreators.
Timidité des créateurs et maisons du luxe
In luxury on the other hand, the examples of brands or groups being involved on this ground are not very numerous.
Among them, Isabel Marant launched his "Vintage" site to sell and buy second -hand items from the brand.Stella McCartney in 2018 and Gucci in 2020 have established partnerships with The Realreal to ensure the sale of their used parts.And the Kering group (Gucci, Saint Laurent, Balenciaga, Boucheron) participates up to 5% in the collective cloakroom capital.
The new and luxury occasional market are nevertheless very linked, says Serge Carreira: "The trends in the second hand follow those of the first hand.For example, Dior is very popular today.Consequently, one of the most requested second -hand items is the SADDLE bag of the 1990s "of the Dior house.
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Themes
Seconde main
Luxe
Commerce
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