Disappeared from radars, creator Phoebe Philo returns with her brand
Three and a half years. Time can seem long when it comes to absence. It is the one that Phoebe Philo granted herself before returning to the fashion scene which she had left after ten years as artistic director of Céline. His departure, motivated by family reasons, had put the fashion world in turmoil, which cried for his sense of style, of ultra-desirable clothing. Here is Phoebe Philo back. Not under the aegis of a well-established house as many rumors had led one to believe. The British designer launches her clothing and accessories brand with partial support from LVMH. The luxury giant will only have a minority stake.
At 48, Phoebe Philo is therefore part of the "entrepreneurial adventure", as Bernard Arnault, president of LVMH, writes in a press release. It is with a certain minimalism that the designer details her project: “Being in my studio and creating again has been both exciting and incredibly satisfying”. And to add: “I can’t wait to reconnect with my audience and people around the world.” For the moment, no information on the name of the label, if it will only be dedicated to women's clothing or not, if it will embrace the digital fever (we know its lack of appetite for the subject). But Phoebe Philo promises to say more in January.
What fashion owes to Phoebe Philo at Céline
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Ultradiscreet
A succinct announcement that hardly surprises coming from a designer who has built her reputation and career on discretion. We remember her end of parade conducive to the same ritual: Phoebe Philo advancing and saluting with a hasty hand before quickly turning on her heels. Flash appearances, sparse interviews and absolute reserve. Which did not tarnish his missions within the various houses that made his CV. We first think of Chloé, whose sales she straightened out and left at the height of her success in 2006 due to maternity. She gently imposed her chic, discreet and charismatic fashion. In short, a cerebral wardrobe with a constant quest for perfection.
Two years later, it is to Céline that she restores radiance and aura, by becoming part of the brand's DNA through minimalism. She poses a vigorous and refined fashion that pushes comfort to its climax. Quilted materials, neutral colors, fluid cuts... An addictive "well-wear" combining effortless elegance, apparent simplicity and neglected refinement. A few key pieces stand out from its successive collections: the wide trousers, the oversized coat, the turtleneck or even the slip-on... Still relevant today.
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