48 hours in La Baule, our guide between ocean tides and salt marshes

Born Escoublac in the 9th century, swallowed up twice under the dunes, to counter fate, the village moved a few meters and in the 15th century took the name of "Bôle", marshy shore in patois , that is to say its attractions. In 1896, a new change of identity, when the first summer visitors arrived by train, Bôle became La Baule before, in 1962, reconnecting with its origins under the double surname La Baule-Escoublac. Phew!

What about La Baule-les-Pins, title of the film tinged with 1950s nostalgia, by Diane Kurys shot in 1989 with Jean-Pierre Bacri and Nathalie Baye in the credits? Just a district but not just any! By buying and subdividing hectares of virgin land around the Bois d'Amour in 1921, Louis Lajarrige, politician and shrewd investor launched the very chic and highly prized sector of La Baule-les-Pins, slightly set back from the coast.

Today La Baule offers two faces, that of the Remblai, a promenade along the sea, colonized by rows of buildings, built during the last fifty years, Le Panorama, the Tour Saint Clair, the Waves of Pierre Doucet, evoking a succession of breakers, and that of the neighborhoods with incredible villas of all styles and from all periods of the Bois d'Amour. A big gap between the old and the modern, reserving some very nice surprises for the curious.

Arrival

TO DO

Whether arriving by car or by train, as at the beginning of the 20th century, those who do not know La Baule rush to the Tourist Office, place de la Victoire, to fetch the very well-made booklets and find out about the tailor-made visits possible with an architecture specialist, so as not to miss any of the buildings worthy of interest, or with a salt worker to criss-cross the salt marshes of the Guérande peninsula.

Tourist Office, 8, place de la Victoire, 44500 La Baule-Escoublac. Such. : 02 40 24 34 44.

TRANSPORT

On foot, by bike or on horseback, these three options add up. Note that galloping near the sea, at the limit between the Atlantic and the sand, and not in the water, is authorized at any time outside the summer season. In summer, the beach is only accessible to riders early in the morning before 9 a.m. and after 8 p.m. You can hire a horse or take part in a walk organized by the Manège des Platanes (25, avenue Antoine Louis, tel.: 02 40 60 37 37.).

To pedal, you borrow an electric two-wheeler (or not) made available by the city, or you rent it, at Chaillou (213, avenue du Maréchal de Lattre de Tassigny, tel.: 02 40 60 07 06. ). A perfectly maintained bike, equipped with a cart to transport babies, young children or gear. Remember to book it before school holidays or long weekends.

Right now!

THE EXHIBITION TO SEE

La Baule, Land of Riding

We take the time to take a look at these 30 remarkable photos celebrating horses and riders, on the initiative of Paris Match and the City of La Baule-Escoublac. These pictures reveal, in the different districts of the city, a universe full of delicacy and emotion. The opportunity to celebrate the 60th edition of the Longines International Jumping of La Baule which will take place in mid-June.

THE HOTEL IN SIGHT

St. Christopher

An essential address reopened on April 1 and upgraded from three to four stars. The Saint-Christophe and its 39 rooms sum up the summer and architectural history of La Baule. The work was entrusted to the interior designer Hervé Riaudet (Méridien Zéro agency) who redesigned the English atmosphere highly prized by the upper middle class in Baule in the 1930s. Each of the four houses looks like a vacation villa where successive generations have left their mark. Here an ancestor painting snubs a chest of drawers picked up at a second-hand dealer, there a mirror reflects a few porcelain objects. From the fairly sober British club style of Ker Jannick, to the eccentricity of Saint-Christophe with its flowery wallpaper on the ceiling and its superb signature suite perched on the rooftop overlooking the sea, you can, without changing hotels, change atmosphere with each stay. The starred table, always brilliantly led by Nathan Gourhand, adds to the pleasure of the stay. Room from €150 up to €650 in high season for the signature suite. Locavore breakfast, mostly organic products, €18.50. Menu from €28.

Hotel Le Saint-Christophe, 1, avenue des Alcyons, 44500 La Baule-Escoublac. Such. : 02 40 62 40 00.

THE GOOD TABLE

Mommy's Boys

A large terrace almost on the sand extending the dining room: right in front of the ocean and the sunset, right on trend, all homemade, locavore and kids friendly. Unpretentious, but very good, in a bright decor, with some school memories, like a wink addressed to schoolchildren and high school students on vacation. We feast on oysters, salmon in gravlax, spinach ravioli with sea urchins but also boards from an artisan butcher, lobster rolls, soft burgers, and a Kinder tiramisu with the taste of childhood. The cocktails are awesome! Meeting of the families on the way back from the beach at noon, of the tribes in the evening. Open summer and winter, seven days a week. Count 30 € on average.

Les Fils à Maman, 16, boulevard Darlu, 44500 La Baule-Escoublac. Such. : 02 40 24 26 47.

Day 1: nature and architecture

Morning

Obviously, the first desire, when you arrive in La Baule, a member for ten years of the club of the most beautiful bays in the world, like that of San Francisco, Ha Long or Mont-Saint -Michel is to tread, from Pornichet to Pouliguen, its nine kilometers of beach bordering the Atlantic Ocean. If the sky looks gray and the sea foams, we wrap our raincoat, we tie our suroît and off we go. You may prefer to pedal on the Remblai but frankly to feed on the energy of La Baule it is better in boots, sneakers or barefoot, depending on the weather, to pace the sand.

To take in the whole bay in a single glance, start from Libraires beach to the east, at sunrise, then cross the large beach of La Baule, Benoit beach adored by fishermen, where you bathe safely. You can also, at low tide, respecting the regulations, trot on horseback as close as possible to the marouilles abandoned by the sea and go fishing on foot. Arrived at Pouliguen we reach the quays of the port stuck in the heart of the city. You get lost in its streets lined with low houses from the 18th and 19th centuries. We walk through its halls before walking to the lighthouse, without forgetting to admire the stalls overflowing with regional products (closed on Mondays).

On the way back, in the center of the bay, to reward your efforts, take a break at the Confiserie Manuel to suck, a regressive pleasure, a Niniche, a soft lollipop made from Echiré butter and sugar, made for over 80 years old by the Ortiz family. Later, as a dessert or a snack, we will fall for a waffle or an exquisite ice cream.

Lunch

Marine above all else, La Baule delights its visitors with seafood. The fishing port of La Turballe and its auction, the most dynamic in the region, are within its perimeter. Oysters, langoustines, mussels, anchovies, sea bass, mackerel, tuna, depending on the season, feed restaurant menus and tempt epicureans. One of the nice, friendly addresses for an “iodized” lunch, Le Ponton, the relaxed beach restaurant of the Hôtel Barrière Le Royal. We choose a table contemplating the waves and we dig into dishes twisted with a hint of exoticism: sea bass tartare with exotic fruits, back of hake in banana leaf, catch of the day, seafood platters, or quite simply a nice plate of whelks and mayonnaise. From €20 to €40. Fun “Day Pass” formula for lazing around for two from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., with parasol, detox breakfasts and Poke bowl or burger lunches, gourmet coffee and Evian served in a deckchair, €120.

AFTERNOON

Those who prefer discovery to contemplation lying on a deckchair, straddle their bicycles to pedal behind the Remblai to the district of Baule-les-Pins, with pretty streets lined with a motley collection of villas. The oldest date from the beginning of the 20th century and the most recent from the 2000s, 4000 listed by the town hall. The tourist office has a booklet and an audioguide to identify the most incredible, in particular those called Paquebot inspired by the transatlantic liners released at the end of the 19th century from the shipyards of St Nazaire and those of the architect Adrien Serious, very Art Deco with their colorful friezes and foam-style coating. We begin the walk at Place Antoine de la Perrière to take the Avenue des Dryades and its English-style park, spotting one of the first liner residences, Allée des Gnomes, the Villa Corvette and then the Villa des Peupliers. An exciting journey of two to three hours, before returning to the beach or the Remblai to, Brittany obliges, order a gourmet crepe at Barapom. Just before dinner we hesitate between a drink at Punch in Baule, for its breathtaking view of the bay (magical at sunset), or the Café de la Poste set back from the sea, but local and very lively. Its menu of house cocktails rivals those of beers and wines.

DINNER

The heart swings between two breweries. Those who like lively, joyful places choose La Croisette, an excellent restaurant-brasserie with a large terrace. Its specialties: seafood and lobsters, which you choose from the fish tank unless, as an inveterate carnivore, you review the many variations of tartars and carpaccios. Approx. €50. Fans of cosier, more contemporary settings opt for the Villa, with soft colors highlighting its honey woodwork. Its menu oscillates between fish, salads and perfectly mastered dishes from elsewhere, such as spring rolls and woks. In the evening, menu from €24.50. Card around €45.

DAY 2: GUÉRANDE AND THE SALT MARSHES

Morning

Once again, the bike is essential, essential for, by the cycle path, leaving La Baule towards Guérande. Another possible option is to take line 1 of the bus, near the SNCF station. Only 7 kilometers separate the beach from the medieval town, which can be reached on foot via the Porte Saint-Michel. Surrounded by massive ramparts in the 14th century, during the war of succession in Brittany, opposing two relatives of Duke Jean III, Guérande, a large town of 10,000 souls, retains its medieval character, but beware, it is a small Mont-Saint-Michel , very touristy on weekends and afternoons. It is therefore best to disembark there early in the morning (9:30 a.m.) to walk around the ramparts quietly. Half-timbered, granite and brick houses follow one another along the narrow cobbled streets. Raise your head to admire the spectacular ridges, lower your eyes to look at the windows of tiny and colorful shops. The city tour completed, before venturing into the salt marshes, to understand salt from A to Z, we walk through the museum housed in the former seminary. Well-designed and didactic rooms and scenography delight both adults and children. Admission €5, free for children under 12.

Lunch

Direction La Tête de l'art is by far the most pleasant restaurant in Guérande, quiet, in the farmhouse of a beautiful manor house, with a garden terrace. Hugo Charcolin, the young chef and Marie, favor locavore cuisine, buying from producers they know well. Grateful, they list their names and contact details in their menus. Pigeons and ducks from small breeders, fish from small boats from Le Croisic, vegetables from market gardeners, everything is fresh, cooked with precision. At noon, two-course menu, €19, 3-course menu €25, and gastro at €48.

Afternoon

We take a little digestive break in the garden before getting back on our bike and riding for about 10 minutes to reach the Salt Marshes. A universe which for several years has been revived thanks to a handful of enthusiasts. To understand these sodden expanses, shining like diamonds in the sun, and the profession of salt worker, we follow one of the tailor-made tours, no more than five people, organized by Terre de Sel with a naturalist guide or a salt worker. The uninitiated will sign up for the Salt and Nature walk led by a salt worker. On Saturdays and Thursdays, the guides offer more advanced themes: birds, plants, the role of clouds, the weather, etc. Reservation essential. To return to La Baule without retracing your steps, reach Le Croisic at the end of the peninsula, a very active fishing port and area of ​​oyster farmers, then turn back via Batz and its wild coast, some 15 kilometers on pedal strokes for the brave (his). Otherwise take the bus.

Evening

The bike, the sea, the wind, whet your appetite. Nothing better to calm them down while recuperating their strength than beautiful buckwheat pancakes and pancakes, the best in the region, those from the Ferme du Grand Clos. Excellent, original and… nutritious. Zou, we dare the buckwheat pancake slipper, stuffed with buckwheat stuffing, roast poultry, mushroom parsley, accompanied by salad, Guéméné andouille sausage and granny smith chips and salad. On weekends, the creperie doubles as a rotisserie. From €20.

Address book

GOOD FOOD AND HUNGER

Brasserie La Croisette, 31 place du Maréchal Leclerc, 44500 La Baule-Escoublac. Such. : 02 40 60 73 00.

The Grand Clos Farm, 52 avenue du Maréchal de Lattre de Tassigny, 44500 La Baule-Escoublac. Such. : 02 40 60 03 30.

Le Ponton, 6, avenue Pierre Loti 44500 La Baule-Escoublac. Such. : 02 40 60 52 05.

The Head of Art, 11 rue de la Porte Calon, 44350 Guérande. Such. : 02 40 88 53 40.

La Villa, 18 avenue du General de Gaulle, 44500 La Baule-Escoublac. Such. : 02 40 23 06 00.

And also…

Table at Castel Marie-Louise, where Eric Mignard, chef for 35 years, has just won back his lost star in 2015. Very pleasant setting. Hotel Le Castel Marie-Louise, 1, avenue Andrieu 44500 La Baule-Escoublac. Such. : 02 40 11 48 38.

The BistroBaule. Sabine in the kitchen, Hervé in the dining room. Popular menu and atmosphere. 15 avenue Georges Clemenceau, 44500 La Baule-Escoublac. Such. : 02 40 61 09 22.

Les Ducklings, sea view, wonderful welcome, constant quality, 13 esplanade François André, 44500 La Baule-Escoublac. Such. : 02 40 24 15 08.

The Café des Écailles, sea view and seafood, a safe bet, 35 boulevard de l'Océan, 44500 La Baule-Escoublac. Such. : 02 40 60 14 75.

The Etoile club, good and kids friendly, activities for children, Espl. Lucien Barrière, 44500 La Baule-Escoublac. Such. : 02 40 24 44 81.

HAVE A DRINK OR TEA

Charlie's Corner, safe bet, 159 avenue du General de Gaulle, 44500 La Baule-Escoublac. Such. : 02 40 60 09 89.

The Café de la Poste, 54, Avenue Maréchal Joffre, 44500 La Baule-Escoublac. Such. : 02 40 60 18 92.

Le Klub, very trendy, 10 avenue Georges Clemenceau, 44500 La Baule-Escoublac.

Punch in Baule, for its breathtaking view of the bay, 29, boulevard Darlu, 44500 La Baule-Escoublac.

GOURMETS

Confectionery Manuel, 22, avenue du General de Gaulle, 44500 La Baule-Escoublac. Such. : 02 40 60 20 66.

Barapom, 153, avenue du General de Gaulle, 44500 La Baule-Escoublac. Such. : 02 40 23 74 27.

And also…

The Fondant Baulois, a must. Chocolate cake with a fine meringue surface and a hint of salted butter caramel. Created 40 years ago… On the market and at 35 Bis av. Joliot Curie, 44500 La Baule-Escoublac. Such. : 02 40 61 66 73.

Chocolates by Christophe Roussel, the ultimate 6 av. Camellias, 44500 La Baule-Escoublac. Such. : 02 40 60 65 04.

TO SEE

The La Baule market: every day, food, clothing, accessories. 26 avenue des Ibis, 44500 La Baule-Escoublac.

The Parc des Dryades, a magnificent place to walk with its thousands of plants collected over almost 100 years and its 300 trees, place des Dryades, 44500 La Baule-Escoublac.

Guérande Salt Marshes Museum, 29, bis, rue Pasteur, 44350 Guérande. Such. : 02 40 62 21 96.

Terre de Sel, Pradel, 44350 Guérande. Information and reservations on 02 40 62 08 80. Child between €6 and €8, adult between €11.50 and €13.50. Family package, from €29 to €35.

TO DO

Manège des Plane trees, 25, avenue Antoine Louis, 44500 La Baule-Escoublac. Such. : 02 40 60 37 37.

AquaBaule, Aquatic Center La Baule: all new, all beautiful, indoor and outdoor pools, with sea water, fountains, etc. Avenue Honoré de Balzac 44500 La Baule-Escoublac. Such. : 02 40 42 56 73.

Minigolf: also brand new, 68 avenue du Maréchal de Lattre de Tassigny, 44500 La Baule-Escoublac. Such. : 09 52 32 23 72.

Thalassotherapy: Hôtel Barrière-Le Royal, 6 avenue Pierre Loti, 44500 La Baule-Escoublac. Such. : 02 40 11 48 48.

READ

La Baule and its villas: The seaside concept, by Alain Charles, Edition Massin.

WHERE TO SLEEP

The Palm Grove

An address with the charm of the villas of yesteryear. This one built in 1929 shelters under the pines, in the district of the Birds, its handful of rooms, only 9. Night from 159 € up to 220 €, breakfast 20 €. Chef Maxime Bobin's menu, from €39. And the must, the rooftop to have a drink with friends while snacking on tapas and in the morning follow a yoga session.

La Palmeraie, 7 avenue des Cormorans, 44500 La Baule-Escoublac. Such. : 02 51 10 58 51.

Castel Marie-Louise

Relay & 5**** châteaux in a superb wooded park, close to the sea. Like many properties in La Baule, this is an old villa built at the start of the 20th century. Bought in 1929 by the owner of the casino, he gave it his wife's first name before transforming it into a hotel. Fallen into the purse of the Barrière group, its 39 rooms evoke those of an English cottage with its mahogany furniture, its flowery chintzes and its cozy atmosphere. From €265, double room with breakfast. Starred restaurant decorated by Jacques Garcia who in summer slides his tables into the park, menu from €68. We also love having a drink at the bar to prolong the evening.

The Castel Marie-Louise, 1, Avenue Andrieu, 44500 La Baule-Escoublac. Such. : 02 40 11 48 38.

The Admiralty

Facing the train station, completely renovated last year, this 3-star hotel with 18 spacious rooms, including 7 suites with balneotherapy bath and jacuzzi, intelligently combines antiques and design objects. Its owners, Annabelle Triboult and her son Alexis, receive their guests with enthusiasm and kindness and confide that they have chosen “the best bedding to ensure our customers sleep like an angel. » The right address for value for money. From €69, out of season without breakfast, €93 with gourmet breakfast, crispy croissants among others.

The Admiralty, 138 avenue des Ondines, 44500 La Baule-Escoublac. Such. : 02 40 53 90 56.