Parade-Chloé-Fall-Winter 2018-2019 ready-to-wear ready-to-wear
Yesterday morning, at the time of the Chloé parade, the appointment of Riccardo Tisci at Burberry created the surprise in the ranks of Paris Fashion Week.The Italian designer, previously stationed at Givenchy, was replaced, in the spring of 2017, by Clare Waight Keller, who previously officiated at Chloé… Is the loop completed?Not necessarily: contracts linking other designers to illustrious houses soon arrived, recent recruits do not fully fully fulfill their contract and, above all, the fashion industry has taken a liking to this incessant set of musical chairs thatAllows any brand to steal the show, to tell yourself differently by the prism of its new elected official, to capture more attention than its competitors during its next parade and, if not to write another chapter in its history, allLess to turn a page.
Surprisingly, the Parisian shows calendar does not have a first collection signed by an artistic director from this formidable transfer window.Only second seasons that are generally the most difficult because it is a question, for the stylist, of confirming his gallop of testing taking into account both the results and criticisms of the initial opus.At Chloé, Natacha Ramsay-Lévi succeeds in this exercise with a certain panache.She prints her paw, but also recalls that she has long worked in the shadow of Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga and, more recently, at Louis Vuitton.From its last years in the largest luxury label from leather goods, it has retained increased sensitivity for accessories.Its boots and strapped shoes for next winter are particularly stylish, rich in associations of materials, patterns and drums added.Just like bags, even ready-to-wear.Unfortunately, this eclecticism sometimes has the lack of its qualities on the clothing side.Often the silhouette turns out to be complicated.Cutouts, slots, skittles seek to reinvent classics by overwarding femininity with obviousness on the ribs or hips, necklines that do not end.However, there is an energy in this Parisian's words that Chloé had not known for her years under the flood of Phoebe Philo.
Frédéric Martin-Bernard
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