The new custody of cheffes to follow (very) near

Who has never witnessed, even furtively, with a slight rise in eyebrow when we talk about the "cheffes".Between those who are slow to put themselves in inclusive writing and the others who claim that to highlight their femininity is lessen their culinary talent, there is still a little progress to be made when it comes to recognizing the placethat women occupy in the world of gastronomy.The discomfort was also real, in 2019, when a three -star chief claimed, at the conference of the famous culinary prize for "50s best" (rewarding the best restaurants around the world), that the "role of women wasto give birth "in the middle of a casting as prestigious as exclusively male (Alain Passard, Mauro Colagreco…).He has since apologized, explaining that he had been clumsy and that they had all the more merit to combine the two caps, yet the evil was done.Brigades, chiefs, clerks ... An almost military hierarchy has been rife for decades in the kitchen.And if some women have perfectly played the game of their counterparts (holding their brigades with an iron fist in a velvet glove, winning the stars and more), others have decided to reinvent the classic contours of the Toque.

Nomadic cheffes in France

Pioneer of the genre, Céline Pham is surely the best example.Refusing to be locked up in a role, an address or a project, she spawns most often where we do not expect her.Behind the menu of fashion house evenings, she also organizes private dinners, when she does not pilot ephemeral restaurants, or inaugurates the Drum Café in the heart of the Luma Tower in Arles which opened its doors last summer.His kitchen is also moving.Sometimes influenced by her Vietnamese roots, she leans towards Provençal when she makes 4 -handed recipes at La Chassagnette en Camargue.When she does not explore Italian pasta, Indian naans or bread according to learning at ten beautiful.In the same spirit, Alexia DUSCHENE, first woman and younger candidate to reach the semi-final of the famous Top Chef program, says he knowingly refused the constraints of the restaurant, his Stakhanovist schedules and the distrust of a male team (and moreelderly) faced with the slightest difficulty that could be incomplete to him.

Talented, she prefers to carry her boat, posing her apron in Turkey, for an ephemeral pop food alongside the collective of ONA chiefs led by Luca Pronzato or imagining dishes for Hermès and the thousands of travelers who climb this fall in the trains of theSNCF.While waiting to share, in January 2022, his love of local specialties for a series of gastronomic documentaries which will be broadcast on Canal+.She explains: ‘I want to be Freer.Today if I want to do gastronomy and tomorrow of street food, I am not closing a door.I have projects of restaurants but I like to keep this Freedom and this creativity.Cooking one day in NYC, then in Turkey or in Italy, allows me to constantly renew myself ».

While in Marseille, it was Zuri Camille de Souza (trained in particular at Yima) who cooks, according to his desires, his best culinary memories From Goa and Pune, reinterpreted with the good products of the Marseille terroir.Sometimes at the heart of the Sanna traveling pocket restaurant, which she opened a stone's throw From the old port, other times, she cooks on boats or in collaboration with intoxication, a collective of natural wines."I decided to become a traveling chef with the opening of Sanna in full pandemic.After I was called to tell me that my contract in the restaurant where I worked was not renewed.I felt that it was time to adapt.I was also inspired by these little India stands, where between a Banian and a Wall, we taste fantastic recipes.A restaurant is ultimately more the idea of creating conviviality, welcoming and feeding more than generating profit in a specific place.Cooking for me is a form of meditation, a summer night dance.It was through her that I discovered my identity as a child who forgot her mother tongue.She expresses nostalgia for my origins.I believe hard as iron in transmission, all the more through this feminist revolution.»

In this wake of cheffes with a solid CV, however working at the crush, also emerge From self -taught, crutched by social networks.This is the case of Zelikha Dinga who launched Caro Diario.An online sales site of American creamy cakes, but made with the cream of French products, where it also offers her headaches at home.»Quand on est indépendante, la liberté est très stimulante.Being able to contact for very different projects (Catering, Food Design, Cakes, etc.) no day looks like the previous one. Et bien sûr rencontrer des gens qui sont extérieurs au monde de la cuisine, c’est très excitant!» Inspiré par l’Italie et ses trattorias, comme les brasseries anglaises aux nappes blanches, sa cuisine mise sur des pâtes Fraîches, des poissons en croûte de sel ou encore des pains de viande.Mandated by Gucci to sign the category of his latest game night in Paris, his sweet creations can evoke the aesthetics of Laïla Gohar.

Talent culinary artist who uses food as a creative medium and who counts as customers like boys, Perrotin or LVMH.Ultra creative, we owe him in particular the titanic mortadelle of the inauguration of the Galeries Lafayette Champs-Élysées, which caused scandal on Twitter.Common trait finally to all these profiles, the instant, ephemeral and most often private character that exist in these new ways of cooking.His works and other menus, developed for days, are quickly swallowed up and have an announced end.Also praise spontaneity that one can have pleasure in rediscovering at home.As the Social Food duo led by Shirley Garrier and Mathieu Zouhairi, whose career took place during confinement.Culinary photographers and fine gourmets who constitute the pandemic by making their recipes on Instagram (become a book The SocialFood: Home recipe book) and who have largely collaborated in the opening of Amagat, Catalan table where everything is running outParis.A creative squadron that ultimately invites us to rethink the institutional structures, which are accompanied by colossal financial and moral costs, exacerbated by the times that run.While ignoring, by the way, to perpetual injunctions to be adapted, which always fall more to women, to concentrate (finally) on their own goals.

Find on the vogue.Fr