New book: Ancient Jewelry (1800-1850)

The expert in antique jewelery and gemmologist, Geoffray Riondet presents an exciting book on 150 years of jewelery history in collaboration with the National Institute of Gemmology and published by Flammarion editions.

In exclusivity, he agreed to answer the interview of the Guide-Joailliers.

What did you particularly want to highlight through this book?

Geoffray Riondet: The books that are published were often produced at the initiative of the major jewelry houses. The ambition of the book "Ancient Jewelry (1800 - 1950) is to allow the amateur to discover, identify and appreciate ancient jewelry thanks to a simple and complete guide, illustrated with drawings, photographic documents and archival documents. often unpublished. It offers several chapters per period with its sources of inspiration and its characteristics; by gems and materials or by type of jewelry, from tiara to ring. This book provides the keys to discovering the world of antique jewellery, supplemented by an overview of the houses and artists who have marked jewelery since 1800 and by advice on how to buy and maintain jewellery.

Victoire de Castellane, artistic director of Dior Joaillerie, wrote your preface when she is above all famous for her innovative vision of jewellery. Is she also passionate about antique jewellery?

Geoffray Riondet: When designing the project, I very quickly thought of Victoire de Castellane. She was immediately enthusiastic about the project and was able to devote some of her precious time to writing the preface. Victoire de Castellane describes very well her relationship with antique jewelry in a personal and poetic preface. They appear as an immense family where 18th century adornments would be the great-great-great-grandparents of contemporary jewellery. I particularly like this concept. She also evokes her childhood memories linked to old jewellery. Moreover, I recommend the book where we find the secrets of his inspiration (“L’Abécédaire de Victoire de Castellane” by Olivier Gabet published by Rizzoli Flammarion).

Which period fascinates you the most?

Geoffray Riondet: I have a weakness for Art Deco because this period marked the history of jewelery by associating the inventiveness of forms with work on platinum. These jewels present a real break with past fashions and a completely new aesthetic. The creators then use geometric shapes to express the modernity of urban life. They see in geometry the quintessence of the modern world.

Who is your favorite jeweler?

Geoffray Riondet: It's a difficult question because I appreciate the creations of big houses like Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, Boucheron, Chaumet… I would also add Dusausoy jewelery because this house is first and foremost distinguished in the trade of antique jewellery. It developed with Justin Dusausoy who moved to Boulevard des Capucines in Paris in 1912 and who participated in the International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts in 1925. On this occasion, the house receives a grand prize for its original models such as the Stalactite bracelet. During the 1930s, its notoriety was comparable to that of Cartier or Boucheron and unfortunately, the house closed its doors in the 1970s.

Can you remind us of the difference between antique and vintage jewelry?

Geoffray Riondet: It's a big debate, I wouldn't risk an exhaustive definition. I would say that the term “vintage” encompasses production from the 1950s to the 1970s or even the 1980s. So we can consider “antique jewelry” to be earlier. But within this notion, it is necessary to distinguish between the different periods, Art Deco, Art Nouveau... the reference period is essential because the French Revolution marks a decisive turning point. Thus the 19th century and then the first half of the 20th century constitute a new era in the history of jewellery. The most diverse styles follow one another, combining traditional know-how and a constant search for innovation. The jewels of this period often testify to a knowledge that has disappeared and remain today a source of inspiration, more or less conscious, for contemporary creators.

You have chosen to approach the subject also from the angle of gems. Is it thanks to the partnership with ING?

Geoffray Riondet: It was of course necessary to approach the gems and the support of the National Institute of Gemmology reinforced this aspect. For the project, teachers from the school brought their expertise such as Valérie Goupil (doctor in art history, jewelery historian, gemologist), Anne Laurent (gemmologist), Brigitte Serre-Bouret (chief heritage curator, doctor in art history and archaeology), Loïc Lescuyer and Gérard Panczer (professor at Claude Bernard University – Lyon 1, responsible for the university diploma in gemmology). Of the fifty or so gems commonly used in jewellery, around twenty, characteristic of antique jewellery, are described in the book.

What experiences with antique jewelry have marked you in your professional career?

Geoffray Riondet: I was born in Lyon into a family of antique dealers, so antique jewelery has always fascinated me and I have been teaching the history of jewelery for ten years now at the National Institute of Gemmology In Lyon. In particular, I participated in the gemmological analyzes of the "Grand Sapphire" of Louis XIV at the National Museum of Natural History, of the "Talisman of Charlemagne" at the Palais du Tau, of the coronation ring of Empress Joséphine at the National Museum of Castles from Malmaison and Bois-Préau, jewels from George Sand at the Museum of Romantic Life, or even La Majesté de Sainte Foy de Conques from the Conques Treasury. Recently, with Gérard Panczer (professor at the University of Lyon I), we worked on the gems of the book of hours of François I, kept at the Louvre Museum (note: illuminated liturgical collection in a frame of gold and stones gemstones and carnelian intaglio). Our results will soon be published in the journal “The Journal of Gemology” in English.

At the end of the book, you offer advice, particularly on expertise. You are yourself a legal expert. What would you advise someone who has inherited an old piece of jewelry?

Geoffray Riondet: That's an excellent question and if I can give any advice, it would of course be to appraise this jewel. In addition to knowing the value of a jewel, only an expertise can insure it and obtain reimbursement in the event of theft. The expertise of antique jewelry is complex and requires special skills. It is advisable to contact an expert affiliated with a recognized chamber or company of experts. It must always be written and include at least, for each jewel, the following elements: the nature of the material, the description of the jewel, the time, the gems, the state of conservation, with one or more photos.

You have an antique jewelry shop in a Napoleon III mansion in Lyon. What jewelry do you offer?

Geoffray Riondet: Within the Riondet house, we offer a selection of antique jewelery from the end of the 18th century to the 1950s: jewelery from the two Empires, Art Nouveau, Art Deco and retro jewellery... emphasis on the Art Deco period or even for the 1940s, on the famous “Tank” rings. Beforehand, all the jewels presented are carefully checked and restored if necessary. They are then the subject of a rigorous description indicating its characteristics. The head office is in Lyon but appointments are possible in the office by appointment in Paris and I also participate in many trade fairs. Above all, I want to share this passion with everyone because I believe that antique jewelery has a future!

Interview with Kyra Brenzinger

To find out more: www.maison-riondet.fr

Book: Old Jewelry (1800-1950) under the direction of Geoffray Riondet

Flammarion edition (15 euros)

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