Are synthetic diamonds really eco-responsible?

The world of jewelry has made it its new playground. But is it really more ecological than a natural diamond? Response elements.

Last May, the Danish brand Pandora announced its intention to give up natural diamonds in favor of synthetic diamonds. The reason ? The desire to turn to more ethical and responsible manufacturing. The brand, which last year announced its goal of using only recycled gold and silver by 2025, presented its first collection produced with laboratory diamonds. If it is currently intended for the United Kingdom, it should be available internationally from 2022. For an entry-level brand like Pandora, this initiative only concerns a small part of sales, but for others, it is part of their DNA. This is the case of the famous jeweler Courbet, but also new names in the sector, such as Mysteryjoy or DFLY, which are launching by taking the side of using exclusively artificial diamonds.

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A gem identical to a natural diamond

Born in the 1950s, the process is nothing new. However, the synthetic diamond has recently returned to the forefront among jewelers. “At the time, it was reserved for industry. It only acquired the qualities of a gem very recently thanks to the latest innovations,” explains Christelle Michel, gemologist and co-founder of DFLY Paris. An expert in antique jewelry who has notably worked for the Court of Appeal of Versailles, her career changes when she assesses two diamonds, without realizing that they are artificial stones. “I had been doing this job for 18 years, I was used to seeing beautiful stones, and I saw nothing but fire. I did not understand how I could find all these natural inclusions inside, the nuances of colors, defects and qualities which characterize the geological diamond. I had to review my copy and conduct my own investigations. It was a revelation. »

As Christelle Michel's experience shows, it is difficult, if not impossible, to differentiate between the two types of diamonds. In both cases, we speak of crystallized carbon. "The only thing that can prove the authenticity of a natural diamond is the scientific certificate of gemology," says the specialist. It is really something extraordinary because they are two identical stones, simply, one was made under the impulse of man. We are able to recreate type 2A diamonds, which represent barely 2% of the diamonds mined underground. These are the rarest, those used for very high jewelry. »

An ethical but energy-intensive diamond

In the era of environmental awareness, the synthetic diamond first appears as proof of the possibility of truly responsible jewelry. Because who says stone created in the laboratory, says end of open pit mines that require a lot of space, water and energy. Another point that appeals to customers: the question of origin, which rules out the possibility of buying diamonds from regions affected by conflict or from companies employing children to extract them in mines in Africa. And then there is the not inconsiderable question of price. Coming from a short circuit, these diamonds have much more controlled market prices for a slightly lower bill. In 2018, faced with these positive findings, Pauline Laigneau, founder of the jewelry brand Gemmyo, decided to take an interest in the subject with the aim of launching a line of synthetic diamond jewelry. "I thought it was great not to have to exhaust the earth's resources to make a beautiful piece of jewelry," she explains. But by learning about the issue, I realized that it was not as simple as that. If on the ethical question, the synthetic diamond is a good student, at the ecological level, it is to qualify. »

Because to achieve such a scientific feat, it was necessary to reproduce the natural context conducive to the creation of a gem. For this, the HPHT technique (High Pressure, High Temperature) creates very high pressures allowing the crystallization of diamond in the laboratory. "We're talking about 50,000 atmospheres and 1,500°C," says Christelle Michel. In 2019, a report commissioned by the Diamond Producers Association (DPA) on the ecological impact of the mining sector stated that a natural diamond of one carat emitted an average of 160 kilograms of CO2 compared to 511 kilograms for a man-made diamond. “The land-based environmental footprint of DPA members' diamond mining activities is low due to the relatively small size of operations, low amounts of chemicals used and recycling of water,” the report states. Regarding artificial diamonds, it is mainly the energy deployed by the HPHT method that drives the numbers up. »

Towards more responsible manufacturing methods

If the HPHT technique is too energy-intensive, another recently developed technique could pave the way towards eco-friendly jewelry. “It reproduces the crystallization of diamonds in space, unlike HPHT which reproduces the context underground,” emphasizes Christelle Michel. It is much more interesting because it consumes a temperature of about 800°C and an atmosphere. In terms of energy, it is much more economical. With DFLY, the jewelry brand she founded with Cyril du Cluzeau, she sources her energy from manufacturers working with energy that respects the environment. “Our American supplier only manufactures them with solar energy. We also turned to India and Russia, which favor hydropower. In France, Alix Gicquel, founder of Diam Concept, which notably supplies Courbet, is starting to stand out thanks to its made in France manufacturing and its low-temperature method which consumes only 20 kilograms of CO2 per carat. "You have to know how to take an interest in different initiatives and know how to surround yourself with the right people", concludes the gemologist.

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Towards a devaluation of the natural diamond?

If, in France, the law obliges traders to label artificial stones as such, in the United States, the name “synthetic diamond” is now prohibited. In 2018, the Federal Trade Commission made changes to the definition of diamond. "A diamond is defined by its chemical, physical and optical characteristics and not by its origin", stipulates the organization. Faced with such a change, some fear the devaluation of so-called natural stone. “Impossible, slice Pauline Laigneau. There is an emotional value attached to the purchase of a natural stone, precisely because of its rarity. It's a bit like having a painting signed by a great master and, next to it, its reproduction. Visually we confuse them, but we know that they do not symbolize the same thing. For a symbolic jewel such as an engagement ring, a wedding band, or simply a piece celebrating a strong moment, customers do not ask us for a synthetic diamond. We are expected more on the theme of recycled gold, for example. But then, what type of jewelry is it intended for? “He has a real interest in pieces from a new wave of fine jewelry, halfway between fantasy and jewelry. It is opening a new sector to replace zircon and rhinestone. Proof that the two can coexist.